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Early Fall A Super Time To Visit Loreto

By: Hal Bonslett
12-31-98

The restaurant and its stone terrace overlooking the beach are busy as a beehive during the early afternoon lunch period and the evening dinner hours. Most of the talk is about the yellowtails taken (and released) that morning.

Later in the spring and through the summer, the Yellowtails migrate north in the Sea of Cortez along with the cooler waters, and the emphasis is on dorado, sailfish, and marlin. The weather, usually mild in April, can get very hot in summer; but it still doesn't deter the hordes who come to fish, dive, kayak, or even play golf at a new course just a few miles south of town.

But early fall is a surprise indeed. The flights each way are barely half full, and the hotels are far from full as well. Only a few of the patrons may choose to fish on a given day, even though the winds are mild and the sea is barely rippled. It is the perfect 'get-away' spot for autumn, and the week before last my wife Winnie and I decided to make use of it for just that reason

Most years, late September and early October are not hot periods for any of the 'glamour' species we mentioned above. There might be a few sails or dorado still in the dark blue waters off Isla Carmen, or some early schools of yellowtails. The best bets, however, are for various inshore or submerged reef species such as cabrilla, grouper, and pargo.

Now this isn't second rate fishing, by any measure. These fish all can give a tussle, especially on light tackle. On one trip a few years back, our guide put us over a deep reef a few miles north of Isla Coronado (The small extinct volcano just northeast of town), where we were either dropping live mackerels or fast reeling 'Yo-Yo' type iron lures.

We were doing OK on yellowtails, but we were also having our offerings 'smashed' by hefty broomtail groupers averaging well over 20 pounds with one topping 30 pounds. Both Isla Coronado and IsIa Carmen- a rugged 17 mile long upthrust about 8 miles off Loreto- have shallow rocky points and rubble infested reefs. These are perfect to bottom fish, or, in some places, flip or short cast right into likely spots.

Early fall in most years, as we said, features this type of fishing. But very little of the seas in these latitudes were unaffected by the El Nine of 1997-98, and some strange fishing (for the season) has resulted. The Sea of Cortez was... at least on the surface... a bit cooler than normal. As a consequence, there were yellowtail hanging around offshore right on through the heat of summer and into fall. Some were taken during our stay.

Just as surprising, the offshore waters at Loreto were also seeing marlin and dorado. The day before we left to come home, a couple found that out in spades. Besides some excellent dorado catches, the lady hooked and landed a striped marlin going about 125 pounds!

All in all, fall is a great time to be in Loreto. The blistering temperatures of summer are for the most part gone, and the prevailing winds which blow down the Sea of Cortez from November to March haven't settled in as yet..

The Oasis Hotel, our first choice to stay at when in Loreto, is truly an Oasis. It sits in a grove of date and other palms along with scores of other colorful trees and shrubs which enjoy the warm, dry climate.

The owners are always working at improving the landscaping and buildings on site. They are currently adding a second story to one of the units, and building a new two story room unit right next door. The bar and restaurant are excellent, and everyone who works there does a great job of making sure all of your needs are met.

Cabs can take you any place in town in minutes and at good prices; should you wish to eat in a restaurant away from the hotel, shop in the many small stores in Loreto's mid-town, visit the Super Mercado (Supermarket), or simply sight-see around the area. For those who wish, most of the tourist shops and points of interest are only a few minutes away by walking.

This includes the local church, which was built as a mission in 1752! Loreto was founded in 1697 and holds the distinction as the oldest continually occupied town in 'the Californias'; meaning Baja California and all of what is the State of California in the U.S.(Alta California).

Father Junipero Serra, the founder of the chain of missions in Alta California, departed from Loreto in 1769 to establish missions as far north as Sonoma. Loreto was the Capitol City until being devastated by a hurricane in 1829; at which time the capitol was moved to La Paz; its current location.

Early tourists to the area and its fishing came by plane to private strips in the area. With the opening of Highway 1 in 1973, many came by land, in camper trucks, automobiles, or pulling vacation trailers all the way from San Diego-Tijuana; some 700 miles distant.

Government backed development of the area for the purpose of establishing it as a base for tourism also resulted in an airport able to handle jet passenger planes. Daily service from Los Angeles brings most hotel guests into the area.

For more information on Loreto in the fall.... or anytime of the year call Big Game Fishing in Oakland, CA at 800- 458-2879; or contact the Oasis Hotel at 01152(113)5-0112. Their mailing address is Adpo Postal 17, Loreto, BCS 23880, Mexico.

As for us, we'll be right back here, next issue. Good Fishin' ...Hal.

 

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